“Life is either a great adventure or nothing”

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A surfer approaches the beach on a perfect morning. The orange sun is just rising over the horizon. The gentle breeze stirs around the scent of salt and the water looks like glass. The man goes into the ocean and maneuvers among the large waves successfully, skillfully cutting and slashing on the face of the swell. That’s the image that appears in my head when I think of Dan, the epitome of the term, soul surfer. A person who surfs for the pleasure and joy of being close to nature. I met him almost three years ago. At that time, we barely spoke two words to each other. Now, he’s probably one of the few people I consider my best friend. Once, he told me that, “Life is either a great adventure or nothing” and that made all the difference in my life.

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